Sunscreen Decoded: Mineral vs. Chemical, SPF, PA+, UVA/UVB, & More
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Backtrack to 2019 (don’t you miss those good ‘ol days?). I was packing my backpack the night before a hike and went to grab for my sunscreen bottle… and then my stomach dropped.
I was pregnant. I couldn’t use THAT sunscreen. It was then that I realized we owned only, what I would call, “adult” sunscreen. And although, at the time, I didn’t know much about sunscreen, I knew that was NOT what you slathered on your skin when pregnant. After all, your skin absorbs what you put on it, no?
So I made a trip to the closest store to pick up a bottle of “baby sunscreen” that was SPF 50 or higher. I live at high altitude and I’d read somewhere that pregnancy hormones make you more susceptible to skin burns so I figured, the bigger the number the better!
Once I found the aisle, I was overwhelmed by all the choices. Which brand was the “best” or “safest?” I pulled out my smartphone and Googled “The best baby sunscreen brands.” None of the top brands were sold at my store, at least not in 2019. So, I grabbed a bottle from a familiar brand. You would recognize it too, I’m sure - the bottle has a little blonde girl in pig tails with the puppy following behind her, tugging at her bathing suit.
The next day, I squeezed that bottle into my hand and went to rub it into my arm… and realized that in my 20+ years on this planet, I’ve never used mineral sunscreen before.
Girl, it was HARD to spread that stuff! It was like spreading butter that has been chilling in the fridge all day and someone just pulled it out a few minutes ago… Whereas applying chemical sunscreen is more like spreading butter that has been sitting out on the counter for a good hour. There was a BIG. FREAKING. DIFFERENCE.
Plus, the sunscreen did NOT turn invisible, like chemical sunscreen does, once it is rubbed in. It gave me this horrific “white cast” anywhere and everywhere I’d smeared it. Not exactly the look I was going for.
But… and this is a BIG FREAKING BUT… mineral sunscreen is sooooo much better for you and the planet. And, as I found out later, not all brands are treated equally.
I now LOVE mineral sunscreen. And here’s why you will too. I dare you to make the switch for you and your family (and Mother Nature).
Mineral vs. Chemical Sunscreen
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What’s the Difference?
Mineral sunscreens sit on top of your skin. It acts as a physical barrier between you and the sun, filtering out harmful UV rays.
Some mineral sunscreens (like CeraVe) come packed with ceramides. These help restore and maintain your skin's protective barrier.
Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing into your skin. When the UV rays hit it, it converts those harmful rays into heat and reflects the heat back, off of your skin.
Chemical sunscreens can be irritating. Chemical sunscreen is not recommended for use on people with sensitive skin, pregnant or nursing women, young children, and/or babies.
Chemical Ingredients: Hidden Risks
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Important to note... NONE of the chemical ingredients listed below are considered safe and effective by the FDA, especially at the concentration strengths seen in the USA formulas.
Avobenzone. This guy breaks down fast, only offering about 30 minutes of protection unless paired with other ingredients like those listed below. He can cause skin irritation and he can block the effects of testosterone on a cellular level. He is used to help protect against UVA rays.
Oxybenzone. He has become public enemy #1 for his aggressions against beautiful coral reefs and young children. Not only is he guilty of lowering testosterone levels in young boys, but it is also believed that use during pregnancy could cause early pregnancy or lower birth weights in boys and girls. He also likes to attack young coral's DNA, disrupting its growth and development, and decrease their ability to fight off infections. He is used to help protect against UVB rays.
Octocrylene. He is a known endocrine disruptor, skin irritant, and an aggressor of our coral reefs. He also likes to break down into toxic free radicals in your body, which can increase your risk of cancer and other health issues. Lastly, if you use him, he can be found in your blood, urine, and breast milk weeks after use. He is used to help protect against UVB rays.
Octisalate. He is known to cause skin irritation and is currently being studied for his possible negative effects on coral reefs and the human endocrine system. He helps protect against UVB rays and also adds water-resistant properties to sunscreen.
Octinoxate. Banned in several countries for his aggressions against aquatic life, this guy has a few aliases including methoxycinnamate, parsol, escalol, and more. He is a known endocrine disruptor that mimics estrogen and messes with your thyroid's function. If you use him, he can be found in your urine, blood, and breast milk weeks after use. He is used to help protect against UVB rays.
Homosalate. He is a known endocrine disruptor and breaks down into toxic free radicals. It is also believed that he may increase your body's absorption of pesticides. He is used to help protect against UVB rays.
Mineral Ingredients: Skin & Planet-Friendly
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Zinc oxide. He is not an endocrine disruptor, is not killing aquatic life, and does not release toxic free radicals. However, he is not safe if inhaled, so never use him in powder or aerosol form. He helps protect against UVA rays.
Titanium dioxide. He is not an endocrine disruptor, is not killing aquatic life, and does not release toxic free radicals. However, he is not safe if inhaled, so never use him in powder or aerosol form. He helps protect against UVB rays.
Mineral sunscreens typically use nanoparticles, nano-size versions of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. This helps reduce “white cast,” or a white appearance on your skin. It also increases the SPF of the sunscreen. So far, studies have shown that nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin beyond the surface layer.
Mineral sunscreens are not sold as aerosols. This is because they can upset your GI tract if inhaled or ingested. Which shouldn’t be a game changer since 1) You have to still rub the sunscreen into your skin once you spray it on and 2) Aerosols don’t work well at higher elevations.
Skip These: Hidden Additives to Avoid
Parabens. Used to lengthen the shelf life of sunscreens, these are known to be endocrine disruptors.
Butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, and propylparaben are commonly used in sunscreens.
Phthalates. These are known to be neurotoxic and are endocrine and immunity disruptors. They are also believed to cause damage to your liver, kidneys, and lungs.
They may be listed under the ingredients or as part of a fragrance's ingredients. You can also pick them out if the recycling symbol on the bottle is listed as a 3 or 7.
Sulfates. These can cause irritation and drying of your skin since they pull your skin's natural oils away from your body.
Sodium lauryl sulfate is commonly used in sunscreens.
Fragrances and dyes. More likely to cause irritation than protect you from skin burns, aging, and cancers, these affect the smell and color of the sunscreen. Most fragrances used in skin care products are synthetic, meaning they are derived from petroleum or other non-natural materials.
Mineral oils. These are used to help moisturize your skin. However, they are derived from petroleum, so avoid them when possible.
The Difference Between UVA and UVB
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UVA rays: Cause premature aging of your skin (like wrinkles and sun spots) and some skin cancers.
UVB rays: Cause skin burns, flaking, and most skin cancers.
Look for “Broad Spectrum” on the label. Broad spectrum sunscreens protect you from both UVA and UVB rays.
Decoded: SPF Rating
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30 SPF will protect you from about 96% of UVB rays. 50 SPF will protect you from about 98% of UVB rays. That isn't a huge difference, so don't sweat the SPF number as long as it falls somewhere between 30 and 50.
Fun Fact. SPF is a measurement of how effective a material or substance is (in this case sunscreen) at filtering out UVB rays, and only UVB rays. That means SPF is only a gauge of how protected you are from skin burns and most cancers... not UVA rays that cause aging signs like wrinkles.
Decoded: PA+ Rating
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A new rating system is being used to show a sunscreen’s ability to protect against UVA rays. It isn’t being widely used yet, but you may start to see it on some bottles.
PA+ = Some UVA protection
PA++ = Moderate UVA protection
PA+++ = High UVA Protection
PA++++ = Extremely High UVA Protection
Sunscreen Solutions for Skin Concerns
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Do you have oily skin? Look for matte sunscreens. Look for sunscreens containing glycerin or hyaluronic acid or light-weight moisturizers like jojoba oil or aloe vera.
Are you prone to acne? Look for non-comedogenic sunscreen that is "dermatologist-approved." Avoid products with coconut oil or lanolin since these commonly cause clogged pores. Silicones can also cause pores to clog. Non-comedogenic moisturizers include shea butter, sunflower oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, acai oil, evening primrose oil, and more.
Are you over the age of 30? Look for sunscreens that battle the signs of aging and environmental pollution. These can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone/texture, and dark spots. Common ingredients can include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, rice bran extracts, sunflower oil, chamomile, and more.
